“America has only three cities: New York, San Francisco, and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland.”
That was (reportedly) written by Tennessee Williams – the prolific writer and famed former New Orleans resident. And I’d have to agree. I’ve visited the city over a dozen times in the last 17 years, usually completely solo. And after visiting all 50 states and every major US city, I can confidently say that not only is there not another place in the country with the soul of New Orleans, but nowhere even comes close.
The southern Louisiana air envelops you the minute you land in the city and even the typical traveler routines of eat, drink, experience, and repeat somehow hit different. Trust me on that. But with a city known for its food, drinks, and festivals, it can be overwhelming to navigate as a first-time or first-time-in-awhile visitor. With so much to see, eat, drink, and explore it helps to have a guide, so here’s mine that I put together after a recent trip to the Crescent City.
WHERE TO EAT:
My main focus on each trip to the South (and most other visitors I’m sure) is to eat. And then eat a little more and a little more all day long until I either run out of money or all the kitchens close. There is nothing like a Southern meal where you can taste the love and history in each dish. I try to experiment with new restaurants each time I visit New Orleans, while also keeping mainstays on the agenda – they’re popular for a reason, y’all.
Here are the standouts from my latest trip:
COCHON RESTAURANT
My first meal on my latest trip to the city was also one of the most highly recommended and memorable — Cochon Restaurant. Located just a short walk from my hotel in the Central Business District and near the French Quarter, the bustling corner space is stylish and fun. With many traditional Southern dishes on the menu, Cochon prides itself on locally sourced proteins cooked in traditional methods.
I enjoyed a refreshing glass of rosé with a starter of delectable crawfish bisque that had just the right ratio of crawfish to bisque (I lived in Louisiana for five years and am very serious about this). I followed it up with a Catfish Courtboullion that quite literally melted in my mouth.
COUVANT
Couvant is a stylish French-inspired Louisiana Brasserie that brings together beautifully plated and inventive dishes, interesting cocktails, and great wine. Located within The Eliza Jane Hotel in a great location on Magazine St. in the CBD, this is a not-so-hidden gem that I cannot rave enough about. During my dinner I started with a Tête de Cochon topped with dijon mustard deviled eggs, followed by a dry-aged duck breast served with a duck leg mushroom crepe, Fresno peppers, and acorn squash.
I ended my dreamy meal with a puff pastry and strawberry dessert that was highly recommended by my waiter – and now by me. Pro-tip: if the weather is mild, sit outside in the gorgeous terrace space.
BACCHANAL WINE
Bacchanal Wine describes itself as “an experience laboratory where food, music & culture collude with Holy Vino to create the most unique evenings you will ever experience in New Orleans Ninth Ward.”
And, well, the description is spot on. Walk into the wine shop and head to the back patio to grab a table – it’s first-come first-serve and mostly serve yourself. Enjoy some wine from the bar upstairs and order off the QR code menus for some incredible food. I started with warm bread with black garlic butter and followed with a confit chicken leg, then stuck around to listen to the music.
RUBY SLIPPER
The Ruby Slipper Cafe has locations throughout New Orleans and beyond, and I always make time to find one on a visit. At the intersection of brunch and New Orleans flavors is Ruby Slipper Cafe, with homemade buttermilk biscuits baked daily and inventive seasonal brunch cocktails. I opted for the buttermilk biscuit slider duo – one pork cochon and one fried chicken and gravy – and was very satisfied.
CAFÉ DU MONDE
If you’ve ever visited New Orleans, undoubtedly you have visited the famous French coffee stand Café Du Monde – with several locations around the area serving the classic beignets and chicory coffee au lait, it’s touristy and delicious. The classic French Market location on Decatur Street is the perfect spot to spend a morning people-watching with live music nearly always happening nearby and artists and buskers lining the streets.
This location has first-come first-serve seating along with to-go options and is strictly cash only, so come prepared.
WHERE TO DRINK:
EVERYWHERE:
So whether you’ve visited the city or not, undoubtedly you’ve heard that New Orleans has no open container laws, meaning – you can drink pretty much anywhere (as long as your beverage of choice isn’t in a glass bottle). Because of this, it’s completely common to see people strolling the streets at nearly any time of day with a drink in hand. Many bars and restaurants offer to-go cups and drinks to meander with, and this time of year there’s no doubt a festival happening somewhere with vendors selling all the Abita beer and hurricanes you can swallow.
THE SAZERAC HOUSE:
As the official cocktail of the city, you can’t leave town without trying a Sazerac. And there is no better place to start than Sazerac House, an interactive museum with three floors of history and exhibits on the role New Orleans has played in the Sazerac cocktail and Peychaud’s Bitters. The self-guided tour tickets are free and include several stops within the museum where bartenders are mixing up samples of cocktails and explaining their process.
It’s a nice stop before heading into the quarter for your next drink.
WHERE TO SLEEP:
THE ELIZA JANE HOTEL
I stayed at The Eliza Jane Hotel this visit, conveniently located on Magazine just up from Canal St. and the French Quarter. Bearing the name of Eliza Jane Nicholson, the first woman in the United States to own a major newspaper – the Daily Picayune in New Orleans – the space is stylish and unique with nods to its history.
The bar, aptly named “The Press Room” serves a lively crowd in a dark and moody environment that opens up to a light and bright terrace space perfect for gathering. The rooms feel fresh while still maintaining the overall restored 19th-century, jewel-toned vibe. I loved the tall ceilings and windows in my room that looked out onto Magazine St.
The bed was comfortable and the staff went above and beyond to accommodate anything I might need. I was able to walk easily from the front door to nearly anywhere I wanted to be while still feeling slightly off the beaten-party path.
WHERE TO EXPLORE:
THE FRENCH QUARTER
Also known as the Vieux Carré, the French Quarter was founded in 1718 and is the oldest neighborhood in New Orleans – as well as where most visitors will spend their time. And while I understand the calls to “go beyond the French Quarter” from locals (see below) I also can’t let a trip go by without spending time meandering the area – the entirety a National Historic Landmark – and feeling like I’ve stepped into another place.
Known for Bourbon Street, of course, there is so much more to this incredible, vibrant, historic neighborhood. I love to spend time walking on the streets and browsing the shops – to-go drink in hand – watching the talented buskers entertain, artists display their works, and musicians play their tunes. It’s stimulus from all angles and for all the senses.
While you stroll don’t miss a show at Preservation Hall – the historic music venue in the Quarter that has been playing intimate jazz shows since 1961. And this wouldn’t be a proper New Orleans city guide if I didn’t also recommend veering further from Bourbon for your nightlife fix and heading to the eclectic and more laid-back Frenchman St.
CITY PARK
It’s incredibly easy to take a famed New Orleans streetcar from Canal St. to Mid-City and City Park – one of the largest urban parks in the country. Over twice as large as New York’s Central Park, you can spend an entire day from sun up to sundown in this sprawling oasis within the city. I spent time walking through the sculpture gardens, then picked up a strawberry margarita to wander the lush botanical gardens. The 1,300-acre green space is home to the world’s largest grove of mature oak trees and it feels just as fantastical as you’d imagine walking beneath them.
You can also visit the New Orleans Museum of Art, an amusement park, an outpost of Cafe Du Monde, rent a boat or bike to explore, or visit a festival on the park’s festival grounds.
BYWATER
Once you’ve had your fill of the Quarter grab a quick Uber to the Bywater neighborhood. Eclectic and unique, this area is much more laid back, and filled with great food, art, and greenspaces. I loved my visit to the experiential art pop-up JamNola – where visitors can meander through themed rooms with art and photo ops, history, and music of the city. Also, be sure to visit Crescent Park on the Mississippi River and The Country Club for drag brunch or to take a dip in their pool.
BAYOU ST. JOHN
Bayou St. John is a calm waterway that snakes through the city and is accessible from Mid-City near City Park. I woke up early one morning to head to the Bayou to rent a kayak with Bayou Paddlesports. It was a seamless process to quickly Uber – although the street car is also nearby – to the bayou and set off for a truly peaceful morning amid a bustling city.
I spent two hours marveling at the sights and wondering how in the world one could feel so close to a city and far away at the same time. It is a great opportunity to relax and get in some exercise before heading back to the shore for more sazeracs and gumbo.
THE SWAMP
While not technically in New Orleans, swamp tours are a perennial favorite activity for visitors to the city. For this trip, I booked a tour with Cajun Encounters, a well-established tour company that picks up visitors from several locations in the city before busing out to the swamp. We had a hilarious tour guide for our trip on the flat-bottomed boat through Honey Island Swamp, where we saw several huge gators, beautiful birds, and – the stars of the day – a nursery of baby raccoons.
It is a trip completely out of the ordinary and a great respite from the bustle of the city.
FESTIVALS
There seems to always be a festival of some kind going on in the big easy – and I recommend planning your visit around one if you can. From Mardi Gras to Jazz Fest, Bayou Bugaloo, to Essence Fest or Bayou Bacchanal – the city loves a festival. I visited during French Quarter Fest which brought music and food to stages all over the quarter from Jackson Square to the banks of the Mississippi. The free festival is a perennial favorite with locals and is now one of mine as well.