First things first. You might be asking yourself, “What the hell is a knödel?” And, to be fair, I didn’t know either until this past fall. Not until I entered the world of knödel — the Austrian version of a dumpling, traditionally characterized by its round shape and doughy texture — at last year’s Knödelfest in St. Johann.
I’m here to report that finding out about knödels proved delicious. And capering around with other lederhosen-clad men and dirndl-donning women while testing an abundance of savory and sweet knödels and sipping steins of beer might just give Germany’s Oktoberfest a run for its money.
“In older days, there was nothing special about the knödel, it was seen as a basic dish,” Martina Foidl of St. Johann Tourism told me. “Now, with over eighteen varieties offered, this [town] is a knödel heaven.”
From the moment you step through the festival gate, your senses are serenaded by the enticing aromas of knödels baking, frying, and boiling. The sight of the world’s longest dumpling table stretches an impressive 595 meters, creating excitement for any foodie festival-goer. The festivities kick off at 10 am with a marching band leading a procession as the crowd grows.
After a bit more pomp and circumstance, it’s time to allow our taste buds to run wild with blissful knödel overload. I started sweet with the mixed berry knödel. It had a scent of fresh berries and tasted of sweet, slightly tart vanilla cream sauce, with bursts of jammy goodness in every bite. A nice beginning if ever there was one.
The apple knödel was a delightful combination of apple pie and apple strudel, with a harmonious blend of sweet and tart apple — complemented by the comforting embrace of cinnamon, sugar dressed warm buttery cream sauce.
After two sweet entries, I was ready for some umami. The smoked beef knödel with sauerkraut offered an experience reminiscent of a reuben sandwich, minus the rye bread. The smoky beef mirrored the savory corned beef and the sauerkraut added a tangy, acidic note, with the absence of rye bread allowing other flavors to shine more prominently.
The raclette cheese knödel drew a long line of eager knödelheads, all lined to watch melting cheese drizzled over the plump dumplings. The flavor was a luxurious, creamy, and savory experience — akin to cheese fondue but heartier. The rich cheese combines with a slightly salty tang, creating perfect harmony on the palate.
One of the fest’s most innovative offerings was the pulled beef knödel — a meal in itself. The pulled beef knödel is an imaginative fusion of flavors, slow-cooked to juicy perfection, enveloped in polenta, pan-fried in panko meal, and served with BBQ sauce and coleslaw. The result? A knödel that tastes like a BBQ sandwich.
I could go 0n — I tasted a lot of knödel varieties– but the festival is not just about food. It’s a sensory symphony with eight bands performing throughout the day. The music ranges from traditional German songs to Tyrolean themes and even unexpected tunes like Neil Diamond’s “Sweet Caroline” and the catchy “Achy Breaky Heart,” uniting the crowd in joyful chorus.
Visiting from Los Angeles, we raised more than a few eyebrows. The common assumption was that we were in Europe for Oktoberfest, not Knödelfest. But we assured festival goers of our choice, coining it “Knödelfest, the new Oktoberfest!” This good-natured confusion led to hearty laughs, clinking beer mugs, and friendly “prost” (cheers).
St. Johann’s Knödelfest may be the oldest knödel-based festival, celebrating its 41st year in 2023, but the locals prefer not to claim the title of “original,” as it acknowledges other knödelfests. They take great pride in what they have built and have changed some since the COVID era. The festival, which was growing rapidly with over eighteen thousand tickets sold before the pandemic, now limits attendance to twelve thousand five hundred, ensuring a higher level of quality. And more knödel for everyone.
If you’re a comfort food fan and knödel-curious, a pilgrimage to St. Johann is well worth the adventure. If you go, please report back as to whether my knödel-testing record still stands!
To learn more about Knödelfest, visit here.
