I’ve covered SXSW for nearly ten years, and it never disappoints. It’s the one place where you could’ve caught early-career Kendrick Lamar in 2011 and also received encouragement in 2016 from then-President of the United States Barack Obama through his stirring keynote conversation with The Texas Tribune’s former CEO and editor-in-chief, Evan Smith.
Indeed, SXSW’s humble, tiny music festival roots, which began in 1987, have grown into the behemoth it is today. But for residents of the city, “South By” is deeper than witnessing band debuts and attending film premieres. You can now contribute to cultural conversations of the moment and explore “what’s next,” culturally speaking. The Gabby of nearly a decade ago attended with the mission of interviewing musicians and downing free booze (hey, I was a young 20-something, okay?!); and while I still love a good live showcase and a free cocktail, I’ve had the privilege of sharing the stage with dynamic voices in sustainability (2023), and, this year, I lead the conversation between three leading ladies in whiskey.
On Friday, March 8, 2024, the opening day of SXSW, I moderated a panel titled The Spirit of Women, aptly tying in with the namesake film produced by panelists and director Leigha Kingsley. We were also joined by award-winning Master Distiller and Co-Owner of Forbidden Bourbon Marianne Eaves (who’s also recognized as Kentucky’s first female master distiller) and another fellow multi-award-winner, Uncle Nearest Premium Whiskey’s Master Blender Victoria Eady Butler. The panel’s mission was to draw attention to the women in whiskey who are overcoming stereotypes and opening doors for other women seeking a career within the industry.
For those who missed our conversation, check out my three biggest takeaways from The Spirit of Women panel, below.
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1. “We Know What The Hell We’re Doing!”
As I mentioned, Eaves is recognized as Kentucky’s first female master distiller. While Butler is the first known Black female master blender in whiskey — ever — which also led to being the first female awarded the Master Blender of the Year at Whisky Magazine’s American Icons of Whisky Awards in 2021 (she won the award in 2022, as well).
Speaking of her accomplishments, Butler said: “I’m not boastful, but those things have merit. So, we should not backpedal from our awards, accolades, knowledge, and strength. We must stand up boldly and proudly.”
In a historically white and male-dominated industry, being a first is no easy feat. But as Butler underscored throughout the discussion, success is truly the great equalizer.
“When you’re good at what you do, it shows up and can’t be denied,” she said. “With Uncle Nearest being the first all-female executive team in the industry, we have proven that women should have a respectable place in the spirits industry.
Speaking of the Uncle Nearest brand, she added: “We’re the fastest-growing American spirit in history, and that did not happen by accident. I was a bit reluctant in the beginning because I was so new, but I know what I’m doing, and our record proves that I know what I’m doing.”
Bottom line:
Stand in your truth and be proud.
2. “Men In High Positions Can Be Great Allies.”
Eaves, who has a chemical engineering degree and has been working in whiskey for over a decade, initially went through a master taster training program through one of the world’s largest spirits and wine companies, Brown-Forman. Describing her start in the industry, she shared a couple of jaw-dropping experiences of feeling marginalized that date back as recently as 2015.
First, she mentioned that when she worked with Woodford Reserve’s Master Distiller Emeritus Chris Morris at a new product release event, a gentleman introduced himself to Morris with a strong handshake before looking at Eaves and saying, “You’re the taster girl.” Tactfully yet firmly correcting the man, Morris proudly stated, “No, she’s the master taster.”
“In that moment, I felt like [Morris] was also correcting me,” Eaves said. “So, as Victoria said, we don’t need to back down from what we have achieved and what we’ve earned.”
The second incident, which was more public, occurred when Eaves transitioned from Brown-Forman to the former Old Taylor Distillery – now Castle & Key – where she took the master distiller role.
“People questioned my right to do that,” she explained. “They saw the bourbon industry as a fraternity. And even – without naming names – the most prominent distillers’ organization in the state of Kentucky had called the two founders of the distillery and asked them, ‘What are you going to call her? She’s not a master distiller.’”
After fixing my face (I have a terrible poker face) and getting through the initial outrage of that story, I was relieved to hear that another upstanding man in whiskey spoke up for her. Who was it? Award-winning author, journalist, and podcaster Fred Minnick.
“Fred stuck out his neck for me, and he continues to do so,” Eaves noted. “I feel so grateful that from the beginning of my journey — even back when I was a master taster at Brown-Forman — he’s had my back. It was on a panel much like this, of master distillers, all older white men on the stage, and Fred announced to the entire crowd that there is a new master distiller, and her name is Marianne, and she has just taken over at the Old Taylor Distillery.”
Eaves said their distillery team hadn’t even announced the new name, let alone her title. Minnick also didn’t tell Eaves beforehand he planned to make that announcement.
“I don’t think I had actually decided with my partners that I was going to take that title,” she told the crowd at SXSW. “But it took me back to that moment with Chris Morris… I was like, ‘Now I get to decide.’ If I say, ‘Oh, no, he was wrong. I’m just a distillery manager’ then, all that progress that I made, my effort in the industry and the products I created, and all kinds of work I did, would be diminished. And I didn’t want to do that.”
Bottom line:
Don’t be afraid to step into your shine and own your accomplishments and when people in power are eager to amplify that — let them!
3. “Never Tell Yourself ‘No’ Because The World Will Tell You This Enough.”
In 2022, The Spirit of Women film was shortlisted as one of the “Top 20″ projects from over 55 country submissions to Breaking Through the Lens, a female directing program in partnership with the Cannes Film Festival. The film, which is about 85% complete, shares the stories of Eaves and Butler, plus Peggy Noe Stevens (the world’s first female Master Bourbon Taster and one of only nine women inducted into the Kentucky Bourbon Hall of Fame) and the late Margie Samuels, who pioneered the legacy that is Maker’s Mark.
Without dropping too many spoilers, I can say that the film will also share other captivating narratives of women in whiskey — ranging from distillers and tasters to DEI consultants and more. As you might imagine, I’m very excited about it.
Kingsley, although hailing from Kentucky — known for its rich bourbon heritage — didn’t realize women’s integral role in whiskey’s past and present until seeing the cover of the June 2021 issue of American Whiskey Magazine.
“I was standing in the middle of Whole Foods and saw American Whiskey Magazine featuring Fawn Weaver and the entire female executive team of Uncle Nearest on the cover,” she says. “I had never seen four women on the cover of a whiskey magazine — and I grew up in Kentucky surrounded by bourbon and whiskey! I was like, ‘How do I not know about this?’”
The magazine cover compelled Kingsley to take a deep dive into the history of women in whiskey and subsequently birthed the idea of The Spirit of Women documentary — initially a step outside her comfort zone.
“I don’t come from the documentary film world,” she says. “I come from film and television in the narrative world, but I was inspired when I learned how vital women’s roles have been in whiskey and bourbon — which hadn’t been spotlighted in mainstream media. In fact, this is the very first documentary ever made dedicated solely to women in the world of whiskey and bourbon. It really moved me.”
Filmmakers behind documentaries must be incredibly passionate about the story they’re presenting, especially since it’s often difficult to raise capital. Added to the funding hurdle is getting people on board with your film’s concept. Kingsley told the audience about the amount of “Are you kidding?” feedback she got when telling people about the goal of making a documentary about women in whiskey. Yet, she’s getting the last laugh — The Spirit of Women is slated for release this fall. She stated, “This film taught me that women can literally do anything. They can make the impossible possible — and I get really emotional about it — but making the impossible possible is what these women have done. And it’s incredibly rewarding to see that happen and be able to tell this story.”
Bottom line:
Always bet on yourself. Simple as that. (Also, check out the magazines when you’re at the grocer, you never know when inspiration will strike!)
4. Final Thoughts
We ended the discussion with a whole lot of appreciation.
“There was a minute when I wasn’t really feeling doing women-only panels,” Butler said. “But this is empowerment. I get to share the stage with three powerhouses. You get to share a tiny bit of yourself with other women, and some handsome fellas too.”
I, too, usually resist the “women-only” discussions as they feel a bit dated and counterproductive (less chat, more action). However, this panel felt different as audience members, regardless of gender, took the platform to ask great concluding questions and praise the panelists.
No male bashing, no complaining – just uplifting stories and lessons learned and shared, along with Eaves’ high-proof closing statement that resulted in a collective cheer: “Don’t make assumptions about people, about women in particular, that we want the softer, sweeter, weaker product. We want the high strength. We want something spicy. So, that’s something that I would encourage y’all to walk out of this room with.”
Amen (and I’ll drink) to that.
Click here to listen to the full audio recording of “The Spirit of Women” panel.