Washington, DC-born alt-R&B singer Kelela is best known for blending spacey takes on soul and R&B with glitzy, futuristic EDM, but on her upcoming live album, she’s taking a different tack. In The Blue Light, which is due on February 11 via Warp Records, was recorded during Kelela’s May 2024 residency at the legendary New York City jazz club The Blue Note, and as such, features jazzy, stripped-down reworkings of fan favorites like “Bank Head,” “Blue Light,” “Take Me Apart,” and her second album Raven, along with a cover of Joni Mitchell’s “Furry Sings The Blues.”
The first single is “Better,” from her 2017 debut Take Me Apart, which you can listen to below. Much of the percussion and the pulsating synths are removed, allowing her vocals to shine over a moody electric organ. The message of the lyrics may have gotten lost in the toe-tapping original, but here, they’re allowed to flourish, with more acoustic instrumentation. If you listen carefully, you can even hear the crowd respond as they’re moved by Kelela’s honeyed voice and the emotion of the moment. At the end, she even introduces her father, who attended the show and whom she credits for instilling her with an appreciation of jazz music.
You can listen to “Better (unplugged)” below, and see the tracklist for In The Blue Light, due 2/11.
Indie music has grown to include so much. It’s not just music that is released on independent labels, but speaks to an aesthetic that deviates from the norm and follows its own weirdo heart. It can come in the form of rock music, pop, or folk. In a sense, it says as much about the people that are drawn to it as it does about the people that make it.
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FKA twigs – Eusexua
When FKA twigs was in Prague filming the 2024 remake of The Crow, she got really into techno. Whereas the British auteur previously shed tears in the club on the 2022 mixtape Caprisongs, her new proper studio LP, Eusexua, captures twigs’ rush of, well, euphoria. Through her portmanteau of “euphoria” and “sex,” twigs has crafted a neologism that already feels deeply entrenched in the cultural milieu. Fortunately, the music itself transcends it. From the filtered FM synth stutters of “Girl Feels Good” to Koreless’ pulverizing electronic percussion on “Drums Of Death,” Eusexua marks twigs’ masterful pivot to the dancefloor.
Lonnie Holley – “Protest With Love”
Lonnie Holley has spent his storied career blurring the line between songwriting and oration. On 2023’s Oh Me Oh My, the interdisciplinary artist recounted his traumatic experiences at the Alabama Industrial School for Negro Children during the 1960s, which required its occupants to engage in physical labor, including cotton-picking. The way he weaved the innocence of youth through the horrors of child labor and racism struck a deep chord. That album’s forthcoming follow-up, Tonky, remains just as resonant. On the D’Angelo-adjacent funk of lead single “Protest with Love,” Holley flaunts his artistic versatility and virtuosity in tandem. It’s the work of a true storyteller.
Scowl – “Not Hell, Not Heaven”
Hardcore rides hard for Scowl. The Santa Cruz punks broke through after an immediately classic show in 2022 at a Sonic Drive-In — and shot on film by hardcore documentarian hate5six — catapulted them to the uppermost echelons of their scene. Arriving with their first LP for Dead Oceans, Scowl freshly expands their sound on the forthcoming Are We All Angels to include shimmery ’90s alt-rock melodies while retaining their acerbic bite. “Not Hell, Not Heaven” recalls contemporary punk luminaries like Mannequin Pussy and Turnstile thanks to Will Yip’s punchy production and the band’s knack for indelible songwriting. Their incendiary riffs and pulverizing drums make it instantly clear that Scowl is at the vanguard of hardcore’s latest wave.
Hannah Cohen – “Earthstar”
Some of life’s most rewarding treasures lie in the unknowable. Love, for instance, relies on a sense of mystery. Learning about someone and appreciating their many layers of depth and complexity carry a degree of risk, given the sundry forms heartbreak can take, but it’s ultimately part of being human. Hannah Cohen suggests as much on her forthcoming fourth album, Earthstar Mountain, a paean to the inscrutable and how that inscrutability presents itself in the places and people we love. Quasi-title track “Earthstar” chronicles Cohen’s new life in the Catskills, where she has lived since 2018, through its lush guitars and ambling bassline. Here, the singer-songwriter posits the idea that love is as natural as the blue sky and towering trees above us.
Real Lies – “Towards Horses”
It must be impossible for Real Lies to make a bad song. After breaking through with their second album, Lad Ash, in 2022, the English electronic duo has kept up a steady stream of singles and EPs. The latest in that line, “Towards Horses,” is another banger fit for the club. Its throttling four-on-the-floor bass and atmospheric synths swirl around you like smoke in a dark room. With their new single, Real Lies maintain their impressive track record.
Alicia Rytlewski – When We Were Bears
Milwaukee composer Alicia Rytlewski’s debut album is a marvel. When We Were Bears, arranged for piano, merges conventional songwriting forms with a classical approach. Rytlewski’s compositions range from grand suites, such as the “Three Sisters Farm” triptych featuring her mesmerizing vocals, to intimate, bucolic snapshots like “Mushrooms And Pink Roses.” Across its 14 tracks, When We Were Bears captures Rytlewski’s majestic dynamism, highlighting both her careful ear for fine detail and resplendent totality.
Open Head – What Is Success
Toeing the line between sampladelic hip-hop and arty prog, Hudson Valley’s Open Head present a forward-thinking vision for the evolution of post-punk. What Is Success, their latest album, sees the group apply Model/Acrtiz’s danceable rhythms to Squid’s knotty labyrinths. The end product lies somewhere between throwing out your guitars and buying turntables and throwing out your turntables and buying guitars. “N.Y. Frills” recontextualizes ’80s Sonic Youth for the modern age, and “House” positions polyrhythmic Phil Selway-esque grooves against metallic guitar scrapes. What Is Success is a stirring statement from Open Head. It’s a record that draws from so many touchpoints that it results in something all the more original.
Sumac & Moor Mother – “Scene 1”
Each experimental in their own ways, Sumac and Moor Mother still seem like a strange collaboration on paper. The former, a post-metal supergroup, and the latter, a jazz-oriented rapper and orator, flout conventions within their respective genres, but on their debut joint album, The Film, they find common ground as outré obsessives. Lead single “Scene 1” finds Moor Mother weaving her poetry on colonialism throughout Sumac’s doomy tapestry of spacious guitar distortion. Noisy and dense, “Scene 1” doesn’t shy away from its own intensity. In their own catalogs, both artists showcase a predilection for cutting-edge, challenging work. “Scene 1” sees them unite their gifts for confrontation.
Kelcey Ayer – “Don’t Look Down”
Last year, Local Natives co-vocalist, co-founder, and keyboardist Kelcey Ayer announced that he would be leaving his longtime band. Although Ayer has helmed his Jaws Of Love project for a while, he’s now putting out music under his own name for the first time. “Don’t Look Down,” his debut solo single, marks a new direction for the LA songwriter. A syncopated, swung groove ushers in waves of soft horns, and Ayer’s hypnotizing voice rises into the mix like vapor from the sea. Whatever he has in store, it seems incredibly promising.
The Head And The Heart – “Time With My Sins”
Alt-folk staples The Head And The Heart have a new album in the works. Although they have yet to reveal more details, such as its name and release date, the Seattle group has shared “Arrow” and, now, “Time With My Sins.” In a press release, vocalist-guitarist Jonathan Russell says it’s a “song about vulnerability and hard truths that can feel scary to put out in the open like this, but I’m glad we did.”
For the past few months, there have been rumblings coming out of Sacramento that De’Aaron Fox was considering his options for the future outside of northern California. The Kings fired Mike Brown as head coach early in the season in an apparent effort to appease Fox and change things up to save their season and chances of keeping their All-Star point guard long-term.
While the Kings have turned things around since then and are firmly in the Play-In mix in the West, that seemingly is not enough in the eyes of Fox. On Tuesday, multiple reporters (including Shams Charania and Sam Amick) brought word that the Kings were open to trade talks on Fox as the deadline approaches, and that the star guard has a particular destination in mind. Immediately, there were a handful of teams that made sense as potential landing spots. The Heat and the Lakers regularly find their ways onto these lists for unsurprising reasons, while the Magic and Rockets are young teams on the rise that look to be an All-Star point guard away from being real threats.
The question for the Kings becomes what their priorities become without Fox. They still have some veteran talent on the roster, headlined by Domantas Sabonis and the recently signed DeMar DeRozan. That makes a full scale rebuild difficult — and that hasn’t seemed like something ownership is interested in — so they might prefer a combination of players and picks rather than a full-on asset heavy package. A potential deal could send Chris Paul, Keldon Johnson, and multiple first round picks to Sacramento for Fox, or the Kings could push for rookie Stephon Castle to be the centerpiece of a deal, as he wants to play point guard and would certainly not be the point guard of the future in San Antonio if Fox were to arrive.
The “star player pushing out of a smaller market” routine has become a seemingly annual tradition in the NBA, but I’ll give Fox credit for not just looking to head to a big market but having a destination in mind with long-term on-court success on his mind in trying to pair with Wembanyama in San Antonio.
Sometimes the best new R&B can be hard to find, but there are plenty of great rhythm-and-blues tunes to get into if you have the time to sift through the hundreds of newly released songs every week. So that R&B heads can focus on listening to what they love in its true form, we’ll be offering a digest of the best new R&B songs that fans of the genre should hear every Friday.
Since the last update of this weekly R&B column, we’ve received plenty of music and news from the genre’s artists.
SZA, who will join Kendrick Lamar for his Super Bowl LIX performance, provided plenty of entertainment with Keke Palmer as they promoted their No. 1 movie One Of Them Days. Elsewhere, Mereba unveiled her new single “Phone Me” while Anderson .Paak and Stevie Wonder joined a talented cast of artists who will perform at the FireAid Benefit Concert in support of the Los Angeles wildfire victims.
JoJo — NGL
This year is shaping up to be a big year for JoJo as she gets the ball rolling with her new EP NGL. The project arrives with eight songs and no guest features, as JoJo takes over the show to display her resilience and celebrate her ability to overcome adversity.
Highlights: “Porcelain,” “Start Over” & “One Last Time”
Jordan Adetunji — A Jaguar’s Dream
Belfast singer Jordan Adetunji continues his breakout run with his new project A Jaguar’s Dream. The 10-track project features contributions from Kehlani, Bryson Tiller, and Lil Baby for a body of work that celebrates his evolution and rise. “A Jaguar’s Dream is an entry into my love life and my world of thoughts through sound and emotion,” Adetunji said in a press release. “A real manifestation of my dreams I wish to make reality.”
In less than three weeks, Mereba will release her second album The Breeze Grew A Fire. Following the project’s first single “Counterfeit,” the singer returns with “Phone Me” which is just another dazzling piece of the puzzle that adds to the soon-to-be-acknowledged beauty of The Breeze Grew A Fire.
Sailorr & Summer Walker — “Pookie’s Requiem (Hehe Look Y’all I Made It Longer)”
Sailorr, a rising Vietnamese singer out of Florida, lands a major co-sign from Summer Walker through a remix of her breakout track “Pookie’s Requiem.” The new take receives the cheeky title of “Pookie’s Requiem (Hehe Look Y’all I Made It Longer)” as Sailorr and Walker combine their lalents to add a new layer to the breakup anthem.
Chase Shakur — “Fairytales In Midtown” Feat. TyFontaine
Next week, Atlanta singer Chase Shakur will release his debut album Wonderlove, which he’s slowly previewed with a growing collection of singles. That trend continues with his latest release “Fairytales In Midtown” alongside TyFontaine. A nod to his hometown, Shakur and TyFontaine craft a slow jam for the early stages of a relationship where desire clouds all the senses.
Jawan.mp3 — Reverie
Nearly four years after releasing his The Abstract EP, singer Jawan.mp3 releases his second full-length project Reverie. “This is six years in the making and I’m glad I took my time,” Jawan.mp3 said about the project which delivers 14 songs and features from Elijah Dai, Mal Saunders, and BeMyFiasco. ” “As urgent as music feels sometimes, I believed it was more important to be proud of the work and sure that it matched what I needed to express.”
Highlights: “Loved That Way” & “Cause & Effect,”
Kacy Hill & 6LACK — “Time’s Up”
Kacy Hill is a name you probably know from her feature on Travis Scott’s “90210” from his Rodeo album, but the Phoenix singer has built a strong discography over the years. The latest entry into it is “Time’s Up” alongside 6LACK. The laid-back record boasts a soothing melody and sweet lyrics balanced by Hill’s airy vocals and 6LACK’s distinctive flow.
Mabel & King Promise — “All Over You”
UK singer Mabel teams up with Ghanaian singer King Promise for their new collaboration “All Over You.” The record blends R&B with afrobeats for a heartfelt expression of love and adoration. “It represents my reconnection to a side of me that I haven’t explored musically in a while,” Mabel said about the song in a press release.
Aqyila — “Focus”
Canadian singer Aqyila kicks off her 2025 year with the release of “Focus.” It’s an upbeat R&B record that you can surely jam out to as Aqyila unloads lyrics filled with confidence and determination as she speaks to someone she desires. “Focus” is all about feeling confident and knowing my worth – that’s the energy I’m bringing to 2025,” she said about the song in a press release.
Charlie Bereal — Walk With The Father
Death Row Records signee Charlie Bereal unveils his debut album Walk With The Father complete with 13 songs without a guest feature. Walk With The Father, which was self-produced by Bereal with co-production help from Josef Liemberg, arrives with warm melodies and themes of love, creating a sweet world to indulge in as Valentine’s Day nears.
Highlights: “Never Gonna Take Away My Love,” “Walk With The Father” & “Hope”
ABIR — “Butterflies”
Moroccan-born and Los Angeles-bred singer ABIR make her return to the music world with her new single “Butterflies.” The new record is a sweet blend of pop and R&B as ABIR showcases her vulnerability as she sings about a new love and the thrill that comes with it.
Naika — Layers”
French-Haitian singer Naïka shares her new single “Layers.” The track is a strong message of self-discovery and acceptance as she grapples with her self-identity before arrive at the conclusion that identity can be more than a singular layer, but rather, the culmination of one’s many layers.
A bombshell report a little more than a week out from the NBA’s trade deadline indicates that Sacramento Kings star De’Aaron Fox could be on the move. According to Shams Charania of ESPN, the Kings are preparing to open up trade talks for their All-Star guard, although Charania noted that Fox may have a destination in mind if he were to hit the market.
“The Sacramento Kings are expected to open up talks to potentially deal All-Star De’Aaron Fox ahead of Feb. 6 trade deadline, sources tell ESPN,” Charania wrote on Twitter. “There will be plenty of suitors, but it’s believed that Fox has a target destination in mind ahead of 2026 free agency.”
Chris Haynes confirmed that there is one particular, unnamed team that Fox wants, and wrote that “Interested teams will likely be discouraged from trading for him being he’s set to become UFA in 2026.”
Fox is in the middle of another terrific season, but as Charania noted, he’s slated to hit free agency in about 16 months. He’s already declined an extension with the Kings — one that would give him $165 million over three years — as he could be eligible for a 5-year supermax worth up to $345 million by the time he can hit the open market.
On the year, Fox is averaging 25.2 points, 6.2 assists, five rebounds, and 1.5 steals in 37.3 minutes per game.
Slowly but surely, the NBA is rolling out the list of players who will have a role in All-Star weekend this year in San Francisco. The league announced the starters for Sunday’s game last week, and on Monday, we learned the field for the Dunk Contest this year, which is headlined by Mac McClung’s quest to win for a third straight year.
On Tuesday, the NBA announced the players who will be eligible to play in its biggest event on Friday night: the Rising Stars Challenge. Here’s who made the teams:
Rookies
Bub Carrington, Washington Wizards
Stephon Castle, San Antonio Spurs
Tristan da Silva, Orlando Magic
Zach Edey, Memphis Grizzlies
Dalton Knecht, Los Angeles Lakers
Jared McCain, Philadelphia 76ers
Yves Missi, New Orleans Pelicans
Zaccharie Risacher, Atlanta Hawks
Alex Sarr, Washington Wizards
Jaylen Wells, Memphis Grizzlies
Sophomores
Bilal Coulibaly, Washington Wizards
Gradey Dick, Toronto Raptors
Keyonte George, Utah Jazz
Scoot Henderson, Portland Trail Blazers
Trayce Jackson-Davis, Golden State Warriors
Jaime Jaquez Jr., Miami Heat
Dereck Lively II, Dallas Mavericks
Brandon Miller, Charlotte Hornets
Amen Thompson, Houston Rockets
Cason Wallace, Oklahoma City Thunder
Victor Wembanyama, San Antonio Spurs
NBA G League
JD Davidson
Mac McClung
Bryce McGowans
Leonard Miller
Dink Pate
Reed Sheppard
Pat Spencer
There will be a few injury replacements, as a few guys on here (Lively, McCain, Miller) have either been ruled out for the season or are dealing with longer-term injuries. The most fascinating thing here, however, is Wembanyama‘s inclusion, not because he is an undeserving choice, but because he will presumably be named an NBA All-Star when the reserves are announced on Thursday. The league changed up its All-Star format this year to resemble the Rising Stars Challenge, with players broken up into three teams and playing a series of shorter games. But this will include whichever team wins the Rising Stars Challenge as the fourth team on Sunday, and while Wembanyama will presumably join the All-Stars, it sure would be something to see him lead the Rising Stars into at least one game against a collection of the best basketball players in the world.
As you’re probably aware, Kendrick Lamar was selected as the halftime show performer for Super Bowl LIX. What you might not know, however, is that the “Not Like Us” rapper has teamed up with fashion designer Willy Chavarria on a limited collection to commemorate the event.
The collection (see it here) includes a hoodie, t-shirt, gym shorts, and a bomber jacket, featuring an “embroidered NFL patch, appliqués, quilted lining with Japanese nylon shell, chunky cotton poly rib at cuff and neck,” according to WWD.
“I partnered with Kendrick Lamar’s pgLang and the NFL because of the opportunity to reach an audience that feels familiar to me — geared up with the Super Bowl on, making it an annual holiday,” Chavarria said. “Kendrick performing is so monumental given his voice on the empowerment of brown and Black people and I love his pure L.A. heart. This project was an intimate collaboration with the pgLang team. We spent a lot of time on the fits and the vibe, and Kendrick tied in everything to get it spot-on. Working with Kendrick is an important cultural moment for the two of us. We both have an unwavering voice when it comes to our people.”
The Kendrick Lamar x Willy Chavarria collection goes on sale on Wednesday, January 29, across various platforms, including Lamar and Chavarria’s respective websites and the NFL Shop. Proceeds go towards organizations and individuals impacted by the Los Angeles fires.
Saturday Night Live has had a broad variety of musical guests over the decades, and while the performances mostly go well, sometimes, there’s friction. Some (in)famous appearances have reportedly led to artists being banned: Acts like Sinéad O’Connor, Rage Against The Machine, David Bowie, and a few others have gone down in SNL lore for supposedly earning a seal of disapproval.
That said, per Lorne Michaels (who has been running SNL since the beginning), no musician has ever actually been banned from the show.
In the new Questlove-co-directed documentary Ladies & Gentlemen… 50 Years Of SNL Music, Michaels explained (as Consequence notes):
“I’ll read it sometimes in the Post: ‘So and so’s banned for life.’ We’ve never banned anyone. We’re way too crass and opportunistic. If something’s hot, we’re going to go for it and have it on.”
O’Connor, of course, generated controversy for tearing a photograph of Pope John Paul II during a 1992 episode. Meanwhile, in 1996, RATM attempted to perform while displaying upside-down American flags, but they were removed before the band’s performance. Elsewhere in the new documentary, Tom Morello reveals some more behind-the-scenes info about the episode, including how the band ended up being locked in their dressing room by the Secret Service.
WNBA free agency got started with a blockbuster trade on Sunday, as the Storm, Aces, and Sparks agreed to a three-team deal that sent Jewell Loyd to Las Vegas, Kelsey Plum to Los Angeles, and the No. 2 overall pick to Seattle.
On Tuesday, we got our second major trade of the week when word broke from ESPN’s Alexa Philippou that longtime Connecticut Sun star Alyssa Thomas was going to the Phoenix Mercury in a trade. Thomas was set to be an unrestricted free agent this offseason, but was given the core designation by the Sun meaning she would have to get moved via a trade. As for what the Sun are getting in return, that remains a mystery for the moment.
Thomas, who has finished in the top-5 in MVP voting in each of the last three years, is a 5-time All-Star and has led the Sun to a pair of Finals appearances in her 11 seasons in Connecticut. She is one of the best defenders and passers in the WNBA, and will bring one of the league’s most unique skillsets and toughest personalities to Phoenix. Thomas will join a very talented Mercury roster, headlined by Kahleah Copper, Natasha Cloud, and (until she says otherwise regarding retirement) Diana Taurasi. Brittney Griner, meanwhile, is a free agent, and adding Thomas signals the Mercury aren’t going to wait around for their longtime star center to make a decision to add reinforcements to the roster — even if they certainly could bring her back as well.
The challenge for second-year head coach Nate Tibbetts will be figuring out how to best get all of those players in their preferred spots, but adding Thomas gives them a superstar caliber addition and will make them a threat to other top teams in the WNBA in 2025.
One of the best parts of traveling includes learning about new cultures and putting yourself outside of your comfort zone. However, sometimes if there’s a big language barrier, unfamiliar public transportation, navigation issues, or rules you’re unaware of (like the one I learned about in South Korea, that it’s part of the culture to be completely silent on the subways out of respect to each other), among other factors, it can lead to a stressful time if you don’t plan properly.
Photo by Jessica Kelly
I’ve traveled to nearly 60 countries, and after visiting Hong Kong, Malaysia, the Philippines, Thailand, Vietnam, and Singapore, I’ve seen some of the most beautiful views, met the kindest people, ate delicious food, and experienced Southeast Asian cultures on trips I’ll never forget. Yet, I still have a desire to see more.
When I knew I wanted to visit South Korea, I looked into tour companies that valued my love of adventure, culinary experiences, and art, which is when I came across Intrepid. As someone who travels solo often, I definitely see how traveling with a group, especially an age-specific group, could be beneficial. We all got very close, very fast and some of the shared activities would’ve been less fun if I was on my own.
Here’s my guide.
Getting to South Korea
Photo by Jessica Kelly
On my way to South Korea flying with Cathay Pacific Airlines, I ended up with a long layover in Taiwan. With this long layover, I learned that you don’t need a visa to get into Taiwan and decided to leave the airport. I ended up doing my own thing just because I wanted to visit a specific food market, the Nanmen Market, but I learned that there are free tours from the airport as long as you have the time.
If you don’t fly Cathay Pacific Airlines, look into the Turkish Airlines flights to Seoul. Turkish Airlines actually has delicious food thanks to their chef in the sky program in business class, making the journey to Seoul (and it’s a long one), enjoyable, too.
How Intrepid Travel Works
Photo credit: Intrepid
Below, I break down the individual activities that we did through the Intrepid Travel group trip. Everything is included in the price, and when it comes to the activities, restaurants, experiences, etc., many are unique to Intrepid Tours (some experiences and restaurants without websites or unavailable to book on your own).
This itinerary starts in Seoul, then goes to Jeonju and Busan before heading back to Seoul, South Korea. Their pricing fluctuates, but on average the trip costs around $1,700 USD.
PART I — Where To Stay in Seoul
Photo by Jessica Kelly
L7 Hongdae Hotel
I made my way into the hotel and immediately the first thing I noticed was the street art style playful murals throughout the hotel entrance. The location of L7 Hongdae is convenient walking distance from a lot. Not only does the hotel have their own coffee shop and cocktail bars on property, but it’s in a great neighborhood where there’s a good amount of young travelers, locals, live music, karaoke bars, restaurants and shops to explore. Adding to that, the shops stay open until midnight. We were shopping for clothes until about then, and the streets were packed with no evidence of closing anytime soon, so we felt safe walking back to our hotel. The nightlife is booming here and you could make the most of your days exploring this area. The rooftop pool comes in clutch during those warmer months, and the rooms are cozy. Minimalistic with a comfortable bed to dive into after a long travel day.
KEY AMENITIES
Free high-speed wired/wireless Internet
L7 signature drip coffee
Fitness Center with the latest exercise equipment from -TechnoGym
Bathrobe
Great selection on the breakfast buffet
ROOM RATE
Rooms start around $250. This is covered under the cost with Intrepid.
Staying in a transition Hanok Village is a niche kind of stay, but worth exploring. Hanoks are not the place to go if you want a luxury stay with a big soaking tub, balcony with a view, or strong Wi-Fi. It’s the place that you go to unplug with very basic, minimalistic amenities. That’s the point. To give you an idea, some of the rooms don’t even have beds, but more of a cushioned mat on the ground to connect you to the earth and the shower is the same room as the toilet, with a small drain in the middle of the room and slippers to throw on, so you’re not walking in the wet water if you have to use the toilet. Why stay here? Intrepid found it important to offer this as an experience because it brings you a sense of the culture. The Hanok Village owners, Yeong Seng & Paiksonok, were so lovely and welcoming. The outside design of the hanok wooden frame is thoughtfully designed and the rooms are clean. It’s just a few minutes walking to town with cute shops, places to eat, and even a 24 hour Korean bath house which is quite nice if you wake up with jet lag.
KEY AMENITIES
Very clean
Great location
Truthfully, not much. That’s the point, to bring it to the most minimalistic level.
Felix by STX is a basic hotel stay with a comfortable bed and a great location when staying in Busan. I had a patio which was nice to bring in some fresh air. The room is large with a small kitchen section. Nothing truly out of the ordinary, but a clean, convenient place to sleep. The city is quite large, so getting around you might need to plan on taking a few Ubers. That said, this hotel is a great location to explore some bars and restaurants in the area. The Haeundae neighborhood has a youthful crowd, ready to enjoy the nightlife.
Gwangjang Market
Address: 88 Changgyeonggung-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
The Gwangjang Market is insanely busy, but definitely worth checking out. This is a great place to try some local dishes like tteokbokki (rice cake), Korean raw beef, liver, blood sausage, oyster pancakes, veggie tempura, and more. However, I can’t stress enough that this is one of the biggest and oldest traditional markets in the country, so you’ll be dealing with some crowns, and occasional pushing. Just go with a level of patience, understanding, and calmness to fully get the best experience.
Seeing the changing of the guards’ demonstration at Gyeongbokgung Palace is a special experience worth seeking out in Seoul, offered through Intrepid. From the Joseon Dynasty, created in the late 1300s, the palace was home to the government and the royal family over the years.
HiKR art exhibit
Address: 40 Cheonggyecheon-ro, Jung District, Seoul, South Korea
Photo by Jessica Kelly
If you enjoy art, the HiKR experience was interactive. Visitors can see video light demonstrations, animation, and there are multiple places to film your own music video with props and backdrops like the coin laundry room, the subway, and the main stage. We blasted K-pop and performed our own music videos. This is a great location to shoot some Reels and TikToks, or honestly just have some fun.
FRZM Dance Studio
Address: 19-24 Wausan-ro 17-gil, Mapo-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Photo by Jessica Kelly
To say this was hilarious is an understatement. I can’t recommend this enough, we had so much fun and it was an activity that gives you a little bit of exercise. We danced to Super Shy and learned choreography from our instructor Shin Chae Yeon (her nickname is Peri) at the FRZM Dance Studio. She was patient with us and taught us slowly at first. Eventually, we picked up speed and gained some confidence with it, and it was such a good time doing this coordinated dance together to K-pop!
Korean Lesson
Photo by Jessica Kelly
I was unsure about this activity at first when I saw it on the itinerary through Intrepid. I wasn’t sure if I would get a lot of use out of what I learned in this class. I was humbled quickly, this class was incredibly helpful. We learned basic phrases that were useful at local markets, when we had downtime and were exploring the area alone, and even just polite phrases like how to say thank you for us to use throughout the week. Our instructor was so patient with us and broke down how to properly pronounce things, having us repeat the phrases and working with us directly.
Address: Seoul Mapogu Dongyoro 197(서울 마포구 동교로 197)
Photo by Jessica Kelly
Hot pot is such a great way to dine together as a big group. With a pot in the center of the table full of seasoned simmering broth, they gave us a giant bowl of freshly grown mushrooms that they grow themselves in house, among other greens and veggies, noodles, and meat to cook in the pot as we chat and pass around Soju. After we’re done, they take the cooked down veggies and seasoned broth and turn it into porridge with rice and additional fresh vegetables that tasted like the inside of a chicken pot pie. It was absolutely delicious and such a great experience.
Korean Food Lecture
Photo by Jessica Kelly
One of the really unique opportunities that came through Intrepid was a food lecture in a local’s apartment. We went to Gwangyang and visited Yoonie and Dan Park in their home where they live with Yoonie’s mother and their three children. They made us an incredible lunch, followed by tea, and showed us how to make dalgona (shout out to all of the Squid Game fans) from scratch!
Shopping
Photo by Jessica Kelly
Shopping in Korea is an absolute must. Seoul is full of mini boutiques, clothing stores, vintage shops and thrifting, and of course, plenty of Korean skincare and beauty stores. You can go to stores like Olive Young and load up on collagen eye patches, pimple patches, some of the best sunscreen, lip masks, wrinkle patches and so much more to bring home to test out.
When it comes to nightlife, there are so many incredible bars in Seoul. One that really stuck out to us was the Pink Bar, with hot pink lights and pink everything, pink pink pink! It’s giving Barbie vibes. You can spot it from a mile away on the street, and it has a funky ambience, a rooftop bar, cocktails, and a wide variety of flavored Soju like grape, grapefruit, and lemon (skip the lemon in my opinion, unless you like the taste of cleaner, but the grape was bomb).
Su Noraebang
Address: 367-39 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Photo by Jessica Kelly
Gyeongbokgung Palace
Doing Noraebang is an absolute must while you’re in Korea. Saying that they take it seriously is an understatement. First of all, I absolutely love that the majority of the bars give you your own private room as a group to sing, so you can really let loose and let your personality shine in front of your friends instead of a bunch of strangers if it’s not usually your thing. They gave us our own private room with theater type seating, multiple microphones so everyone can get involved, and a huge TV surrounded by mirrors. It was such a fun experience, especially after getting a little tipsy at Pinks, we had plenty of liquid courage to belt out everything from Alanis Morissette and Beyoncé, to Gangnam Style and Let’s Get Loud by Jennifer Lopez!
PART III — Jeonju
Kimchi Cooking Class
Photo by Jessica Kelly
If you like kimchi, this class is a must. Kim at Kim Myeongok Kimchi School is a certified kimchi master and is well-known in the community for her attention to detail when it comes to making her own kimchi from scratch. She makes her own shrimp paste from scratch, among other ingredients, to use within her kimchi because she didn’t like the taste of the other pastes available to buy. She goes through the process of creating kimchi, teaching you how to properly do it, and ends the class by cooking kimchi pancakes, letting us taste her radish kimchi, and enjoying food together.
Nambu Market
Address:19-3 Pungnammun 1-gil, Wansan-gu, Jeonju-si, Jeollabuk-do, South Korea
Photo by Jessica Kelly
Walking along the Korean Market, you’ll find everything from crafts to street food like the sweet cheese filled coin bread. This is a great place to find art and souvenirs, and even try some traditional Korean snacks like the coin filled with sweet cheese. Be sure to look through the community garden, you’ll see a lot of cats that have made their home there and they’re so sweet!
Hanok Village
Address: 99 Girin-daero, Wansan-gu, Jeonju-si, Jeollabuk-do, South Korea
Photo by Jessica Kelly
In addition to staying in a traditional Hanok, you can explore other historical homes in town. Take a walk through the village to browse through local shops and pass by other Korean Hanok homes. There’s even a 24 hour bathhouse walkable distance from the hotel that is truly an experience on its own. One morning, I woke up and couldn’t fall back to sleep at about 5:30 AM. I decided to go check out the bathhouse and get an exfoliating scrub, a facial, and soak in the hot and cold plunges, drying off in the salt room and the sauna for around $40 USD for entry and the treatments. It’s definitely an experience, but be prepared to walk around in your birthday suit.
Jeonju GajolHeogwan(전주 가족회관)
Address: 17, Jeollagamyeong 5-gil, Wansan-gu, Jeonju, Jeollabuk-do 55038 South Korea
Photo by Jessica Kelly
Jeonju Bibimbap, a generational family business currently owned by Mi Yang, is the ideal place to experience traditional and modernized bibimbap. They keep it simple with only two kinds on the menu. Traditionally, there is raw egg and raw beef in the dish, so they created one with cooked beef and an egg soufflé if the idea of raw is not your thing. The side toppings and accouterments were phenomenal, all thought out and beautifully prepared, to enhance the dish. If you want to try the raw version, the egg generally cooks a bit once you mix it in with the other hot ingredients.
Waeng-i-jip
Photo by Jessica Kelly
Jeonbuk Jeonjusi Wansangu Dongmungil 88(전북 전주시 완산구 동문길 88)
Instead of sipping bloody marys over pancakes after a night of fun, Jeonju has Bean Sprout “Hangover” soup for breakfast at Waeng-i-jip. Obviously, make sure you have a few drinks the night before to enjoy the traditional hangover soup with spices, bean, sprouts, and a soothing broth the right way.
Yetchon Makgeolli
Address: 8 Jungsanjungang-ro, Junghwasan-dong 2(i)-ga, Wansan-gu, Jeonju-si, Jeollabuk-do, South Korea
Photo by Jessica Kelly
If you’re looking to dive into some very traditional Korean dishes, an important aspect for Intrepid when they design their tours with foodies in mind, Yetchun Makgeolli is the ideal spot to try some menu items in addition to rice beer. We filled the table with raw marinated crab (silky texture with sweet crab meat and spice from the marinade), smoked fish, pork, prawns, pig feet, fermented fish with kimchi, and pancakes.
We spent the morning exploring a Buddhist temple right on the water. The path opened up into a stunning temple with waves crashing, creating this peaceful environment. It was such a stunning view and a great way to start the day. On the path back, there were places to try dalgona candy, local snacks, and shop fenders to buy products from Korean artists.
Photo by Jessica Kelly
Stop along the way from Jeonju to Busan
Photo by Jessica Kelly
On the way to Busan, we explored more local art at Palbok Art Factory. Created in the late 1970s, the building was once used as a manufacturing plant for cassette tapes. You’ll even find a few Easter eggs about this in the art around the building. After we drove a bit more, we stopped at Webosansung. Sure, this was a historical mountain fortress used to shield residents during the Joseon Dynasty…but you know what else it was used for? A BTS photoshoot. Obviously, we had to recreate the picture.
The meal we had at Haewondae Lamb Skewers in Busan was easily one of my absolute favorites. It’s Korean barbecue and shared plates. We roasted lamb skewers over the barbecue, and while those were cooking, we passed around dishes like oimuchim (a crunchy, acidic cucumber salad), eggplant, gamjachae bokum (pan fried sliced potato), and my personal favorite, the tangsuyuk (a fried pork in sweet and sour sauce that had a chewy, thin layer of rice mochi). As always, there was plenty of Soju and beer to go around.
Martial Arts Black Belt Academy
Photo by Jessica Kelly
One of the highlights for me was definitely the taekwondo class at Martial Arts Black Belt Academy with our instructors Shin, Gyu sik and Goo, Jiwoo. Intrepid and the Martial Arts Black Belt Academy set up a private taekwondo class led by Kyunghee Taekwondo. This class honestly made me want to look into doing taekwondo further because it was such a good stress relief. You stretch out your entire body and then punch, kick, and shout your way through an amazing workout. Sometimes you just need that, am I right?
Urban Smart Farm
Photo by Jessica Kelly
We visited an Urban Smart Farm, where they showed us how they’re using agricultural technology to grow greens, flowers, ginger, mushrooms, and more in the middle of the city within shipping containers to create fresh produce in populated areas. An effort led by CEO, Ms. Jeon Jeong Wook. As a group, we were able to help pick the mushrooms, taste the products, and learn about how these efforts are helping the community.
Gamcheon village
Gamcheon-dong, Saha District, Busan, South Korea
Photo by Jessica Kelly
Don’t skip Gamcheon Culture Village! Easily one of my favorite parts of the trip, it looks like Korea’s version of the Amalfi Coast with colorful, beautiful buildings scaling the hills. There are cafés, shopping, art, artisan crafts to purchase, and plenty of snacks along the streets of this village. I seriously can’t recommend it enough, very good for pictures if you’re a photographer, but plenty to do if you just want to enjoy.
Jagalchi Market
Address: 52 Jagalchihaean-ro, Jung-gu, Busan, South Korea
Photo by Jessica Kelly
If you love seafood as much as I do, when you’re in Busan, they’re famous for it. One place to check out a lot of local dishes, or even purchase some seafood if you’re looking to do so, is the Jagalchi Market. This world famous market is known for their wide variety of fresh fish and seafood. I came here to try their live octopus. No, it’s not actually alive, but after they slice it and toss it in sesame oil and chili sauce, the tentacles still move, so they call it “live” octopus. It doesn’t really get fresher than that!
Speaking of fresh seafood, another place to try seafood while in Busan is Taejongdae Yolo Grilled Clams. We tried some very traditional dishes, like live octopus (yum), spoon worms and silkworms (worth a try, but too mushy), in addition to some more modern dishes incorporating the fresh seafood like scallops and clams grilled over an open fire, gochujang fried rice, veggie dishes and more.
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